You know your favorite pair of jeans? They're your default, like a trusted friend. You know the pair will get you by, and you feel comfortable in them.

I don't have that one perfect pair anymore. I did in college, though. They were 1960s vintage Levi's. I was probably the 15th owner, and all the ink had faded from the label. I loved that pair of jeans and they loved me. They went to class with me, we went on dates together and they were even there when I plucked the dead mouse from behind the stove of my quaintly just-on-this-side-of-condemned apartment. Needless to say, the jeans were nearly an extension of my body. When they were finally retired, they had a tear from seam to seam in the knee – which was endearing and showed character – but then two threadbare holes appeared on each cheek, and the jeans that once protected me were now exposing my derriere. I tried wearing tights underneath, but it just didn't work.

It seems like we all used to pursue the ultimate vintage denim, but today it's all about the über-expensive, wash-of-the-moment, faux-worn fashion jean. I would like to say I have resisted the temptation of spendy !! denim, but that would be a lie. I am now the proud owner of a few pairs of favorite jeans. There are the I'm-hanging-out, running-Saturday-errands jeans as well as my casual Friday nice jeans of which I don't allow the hems to drag through the filthy snow and sludge of winter, and which I even occasionally iron. And then, of course, I have the token ego-boosting, body-flattering, going-out jeans.

Denim has become complicated. There are a plethora of choices waiting for you in the shops of Chicago. I have to assume you own at least one pair of jeans, and even if you don't love denim, you at least have a need for denim in one of its many incarnations. As a warrior of discerning denim, I would like to offer you this guide as an aid for navigating the sea of jeans.

If you are looking for trend-of-the-moment, statement-making jeans, try Diesel.

Diesel, at 923 N. Rush Street, is the grand pubah of all things trendy in denim. For some, Diesel jeans can be too much; they are almost always tight, and, very often are borderline gaudy. Just like you can spot a Ferrari from three blocks away and are never going to mistake it for a Chrysler, Diesel jeans are flashy and not for the faint of heart. Right now Diesel for both the boys and the girls is offering up washes with tinges of dirty yellow, and the low-rise, four-inch-zippers trend just won't die. After you drop $200 or so on these denim beauties, add an irreverent top and stop by Rodan at 1530 N. Milwaukee and show ‘em off.

If you are looking for the I-just-got-home-from-work-and-can't-stand-to-be-in-a-suit-must-change-immediately jeans, try AG.

You know when you just got off the el coming home from downtown and all you want is to get the hell out of your stiff, office-professional by day wear and put on a pair of jeans and a t-shirt? What you need is a comfy pair of jeans. No fancy bullshit. The denim needs to be soft and forgiving. Relaxed. That is exactly the kind of denim that Adriano Goldschmeid, surprisingly one of the founders of those racy Diesel denims, and now the designer of the more refined AG, is making straightforward, solid jeans, with a nod toward trends, but nothing over the top. Out of the West, at 1000 W. Armitage Ave., has an excellent range of styles by AG with playful names like Angel, Legend and Hero. They carry girls and guys fits, and the sales staff is very well-trained on helping you find the perfect fit.

If you're looking for it's-Thursday-night, we're-going-out-for-a-drink, but-not-drinks, I-should-look-good, but-not-like-I-worked-at-it-jeans, try Citizens of Humanity for the ladies and Paper Denim & Cloth for the men.

This is a very particular category. It's not the weekend, and you aren't out-out. But, Thursdays have great potential, because somehow everyone seems more real on a Thursday. Thursday night jeans need to be casual, but they should fit very well. Fit is always finicky, but consistently Citizens of Humanity works for the ladies. The second line from the genius behind 7 Sevens, Humanity may be the best-fitting denim for the average woman's body. Check out the body-shaping styles with clever back darts at Active Endeavors downtown or at Barney's on Rush. Humanity jeans run around $160, but they have potential to become your default jeans. For the gents, try Paper Denim & Cloth. PDC makes well-tailored jeans of Japanese denim in a range of washes. The line, which is also available at Active Endeavors, is especially well-cut in the bum.

So you and your significant other share everything, even your jeans?

Androgony didn't end with the Calvin Klein ads of the ‘90s. Habitual denim, a two-year old company run by a boy- and girlfriend team. The company makes jeans for the boys and the girls to share. Habitual cuts a slim denim, so you will have to hit the gym together, but with a pair of jeans you can share, your sweetie can now also be that best friend you used to share all your clothes with. The detailed welt pockets and clever styling more commonly seen in trousers puts Habitual in the pricey $150-and-up category of designer denim.

So what if your job is at a progressive ad or design firm who encourages you to dress like the hip urbanite you are?

Obviously you're respected for your creative eye. And thankfully, your company is moderate about their dress policy. But don't go nuts thinking that a denim-friendly environment means anything goes. The aforementioned vintage Levi's of college days may be the epitome of hip when you are at Rodan having a post-work beer, but they aren't going to fly even in the most creative work environment. Work jeans need to be trendy, so they don't look like an afterthought from the Gap, but not so trendy that they become the topic for an IM session swirling through the office. For guys, maybe the coolest and most tasteful, yet trendy, denim is being made by a surfer out of California called Rogan. Rogan's are expertly crafted, cut full, but not sloppily. They just look classy. They are all kinds of expensive, unfortunately, starting around $250. Apartment Number 9 at 1804 N. Damen Ave. in Bucktown carries them. The price may sound shocking for denim, but think about how much you may spend on a pair of dress trousers. The Rogans you can wear out and to work.

Ladies, the same rules apply for office denim. Keep it clean, but don't feel like you have to be conservative. A good way to dress up office denim is with sheer, textured trouser socks and stylish pumps. Almost every denim company this year is doing a cropped, Capri-length denim for fall. Somehow, with the right accessories, the short length can actually look dressier than a full-leg jean. The Southport corridor is like the Magnificent Mile of denim for ladies. Check out Jake at 3740 N. Southport Ave.